How to Check a Used Car Before Buying: The 5 Checks (2 Are Free)
Short answer: Check a used car in this order: (1) the free NICB VINCheck for total-loss and theft records, (2) the free NHTSA recall lookup, (3) the paper title in person, (4) one full history report on the finalist, and (5) an independent mechanic's inspection before money changes hands. The first two checks are free and need only the VIN, so a bad car can be screened out before you spend anything or travel anywhere.
The 5 checks, in order
- NICB VINCheck — free. Enter the car's VIN and VINCheck searches total-loss claims and theft records reported by participating insurers. A total-loss or theft record usually ends the conversation for $0. Run the free NICB VINCheck
- NHTSA recall lookup — free. Enter the same VIN to see open safety recalls. An open recall does not have to be a deal-breaker — recalls are safety repairs — but you want to know before you negotiate, not after. Check for open recalls (NHTSA)
- The paper title — in person. The seller's name should match the title, the VIN on the title should match the car digit for digit, and there should be no salvage, rebuilt, or flood brand and no lienholder you did not expect. See our guides to salvage titles and checking for a lien.
- One full history report — on the finalist only. A full report searches the records the free checks do not cover: reported accidents, title brands across states, odometer readings recorded over the years, and sale and lien records. Use the button below.
- An independent mechanic's inspection. Your mechanic, not the seller's, puts the car on a lift and looks for the things no database can show — including damage that was never reported. This is the last check, before money changes hands.
Why this order works
- Free first: the two checks that cost nothing run on every candidate, so you only spend time and money on cars that clear them.
- Records before travel: the VIN checks and the report can be run from home, before you drive out to see a car.
- One paid report, not five: the report belongs on the finalist, the day you are ready to negotiate.
- Eyes last: the in-person title check and the mechanic's inspection catch what records cannot — see our flood damage signs guide for the physical checks to do at the viewing.
Watch: the 5 checks, on camera
From our YouTube channel, Check Before You Buy — the full order, run step by step:
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One honest warning
A history report never replaces an independent mechanic's inspection. Run the checks, read the report, then get the car inspected before money changes hands.
FAQ
What should I check first when buying a used car?
Start with the free checks that need only the VIN: NICB VINCheck for total-loss and theft records, and the NHTSA recall lookup for open safety recalls. Both are free and official, and either one can end a car's candidacy before you travel to see it.
Are the free VIN checks enough on their own?
No. NICB shows total-loss and theft records from participating insurers, and NHTSA shows open recalls. Neither shows the full picture on reported accidents, title brands across states, odometer history, or liens — that is what a full history report is for.
When should I pay for a history report?
After the free checks and the paper-title check clear the car, and only on the one finalist you are serious about. Running paid reports on every listing is how buyers overspend.
Can I skip the mechanic's inspection if the report is clean?
No. A report only shows what was reported. Unreported accidents and cash repairs leave no trace in any database, so an independent mechanic's inspection is the last check before money changes hands.
What if a check turns up a problem?
A total-loss record, a branded title, an open theft record, or a VIN that does not match the title is a reason to walk away. An open recall is different — recalls are usually repaired free by a dealer — but you should know about it before you negotiate.